Emanuel Silva

Before removing the drywall around the rough openings, I sealed … Read More Before removing the drywall around the rough openings, I sealed off the wall and floor with plastic to catch the dust and debris.

Emanuel Silva

I carefully removed the existing roof shingles around the skylig… Read More I carefully removed the existing roof shingles around the skylights. I planned to reinstall them later.

Emanuel Silva

The roof had a relatively shallow, 5/12 pitch, so traction was g… Read More The roof had a relatively shallow, 5/12 pitch, so traction was good.

Emanuel Silva

I had set up staging below the eaves for fall protection, though… Read More I had set up staging below the eaves for fall protection, though it is not visible in the photo.

Emanuel Silva

Because the new units were slightly shorter than the existing on… Read More Because the new units were slightly shorter than the existing ones, I installed 2×10 fillers at the tops of the rough openings.

Emanuel Silva

I sealed the opening in the roof deck to the roofing underlaymen… Read More I sealed the opening in the roof deck to the roofing underlayment with 12-inch-wide strips of Vycor Plus self-adhering flashing membrane.

Emanuel Silva

Timing and prepping materials in advance are important when you … Read More Timing and prepping materials in advance are important when you replace a skylight; you don't want a big hole in the roof with rain in the forecast. It took about three hours to remove the old skylight and install the new one so that it was weatherproof. Lifting a skylight up onto a roof is a two-person job. In this case, the homeowner helped.

Emanuel Silva

The Roto windows had been fastened to the roof with a few screws… Read More The Roto windows had been fastened to the roof with a few screws driven through angle brackets; the new, Velux skylights are fastened to the roof sheathing with 1 1/4‑inch roofing nails (included with the installation kit) driven through pre-punched holes in the units’ aluminum mounting flanges.

Emanuel Silva

After the new skylight was in place, I laid out the position of … Read More After the new skylight was in place, I laid out the position of the flexible flashing (supplied as part of the Velux installation kit) used to seal the skylight frame to the flashing-covered roof deck, to ensure that it wouldn’t interfere with the manufacturer’s metal flashing.

Emanuel Silva

The roll of flexible flashing was backed with release paper, so … Read More The roll of flexible flashing was backed with release paper, so I cut the flashing into 2-foot-long strips to make the pieces easier to handle. After installing the bottom piece of flashing, I made diagonal cuts at the corners with a sharp utility knife so that the flashing could wrap up the sides of the curb.

Emanuel Silva

Another diagonal cut allowed the flashing to wrap around the cor… Read More Another diagonal cut allowed the flashing to wrap around the corner. I used a similar detail at the top corners of the unit. After the remaining pieces of flashing were installed up the sides and over the top of the unit with a 6-inch overlap, I filled the small gaps at each of the four corners with clear, flashing-compatible Geocel sealant.

Emanuel Silva

When I reinstalled the lowest shingle course, I used the shingle… Read More When I reinstalled the lowest shingle course, I used the shingles that I had carefully removed previously, because they hadn’t been cut or damaged.

Emanuel Silva

Then I installed the bottom section of the manufacturer’s meta… Read More Then I installed the bottom section of the manufacturer’s metal curb-flashing kit, which is designed to slip underneath a rubber flange that wraps around the curb of the unit.

Emanuel Silva

A couple of roofing nails, located according to the manufacturer… Read More A couple of roofing nails, located according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions so that they will be covered by step flashing, hold the first section of curb flashing in place. When reinstalling shingles, I first fill any holes in the roofing underlayment with sealant and avoid driving nails through the old holes in the shingles, filling them with sealant instead.

Emanuel Silva

Metal step flashing that’s supplied with the skylight manufact… Read More Metal step flashing that’s supplied with the skylight manufacturer’s installation kit is installed along with each shingle course. To provide for good drainage, I cut the shingles short to leave a 1/2-inch gap between them and the step flashing around the skylight curb. At the top corners, I seal the last step flashings to the shingles beneath with Vycor.

Emanuel Silva

This extra layer of self-adhered flashing offers additional prot… Read More This extra layer of self-adhered flashing offers additional protection against snow that might pile up against the curb or water that might be blown underneath the shingles by the wind.

Emanuel Silva

A U-shaped metal counterflashing covered the bottom and sides of… Read More A U-shaped metal counterflashing covered the bottom and sides of the curb.

Emanuel Silva

Next, the metal head flashing was fastened to the lower piece wi… Read More Next, the metal head flashing was fastened to the lower piece with clips. A couple of roofing nails on either side of the flashing fastened it to the roof deck and would later be covered with shingles.

Next, I applied another layer of Vycor to seal the metal head fl… Read More Next, I applied another layer of Vycor to seal the metal head flashing to the roof deck, again making sure that the Vycor was overlapped by the roofing underlayment above.

Emanuel Silva

Whenever I reinstall shingles, I always apply dabs of sealant to… Read More Whenever I reinstall shingles, I always apply dabs of sealant to the tabs to ensure that the overlapping shingles will adhere to the ones underneath. Note the foam rubber pad that I’m kneeling on in many of the photos; years ago, I cut a number of pads from 24-by-24‑inch interlocking floor tiles and have used them on an almost daily basis ever since to protect my knees from stones, splinters, nail heads, and—in this case—the coarse granules of the asphalt shingles.

Emanuel Silva

Then I rip the MDO to width with a track saw, using the template… Read More Then I rip the MDO to width with a track saw, using the template to mark the angles, which I also cut with a track saw.

Emanuel Silva

I nail together the sides of the shaft with 18-gauge brads, then… Read More I nail together the sides of the shaft with 18-gauge brads, then reinforce the joints with 1 1/4-inch trim screws.

Emanuel Silva

Centering the trim screws in the middle of the 1/2-inch-thick pa… Read More Centering the trim screws in the middle of the 1/2-inch-thick panels without blowing out one of the sides is tricky, so I carefully lay out and drill pilot holes for the screws. Before lifting the shaft assembly for this project into position and fastening it to the framing with a few trim screws, I took measurements for the trim kit that I would use to finish the installation.

Emanuel Silva

The stiles and rails were made from primed 1×5 WindsorOne trim a… Read More The stiles and rails were made from primed 1×5 WindsorOne trim and joined together with pocket screws and glue. I sealed the gaps around each shaft to the opening with spray foam insulation, then fastened a simple T-jig above the window to act as a third hand, allowing for enough room between the leg of the T-jig and the ceiling drywall for the trim kit to slide into position.

Emanuel Silva

Once I was satisfied that the reveals were even, I nailed the tr… Read More Once I was satisfied that the reveals were even, I nailed the trim kit to the ceiling framing with 2-inch-long 18-gauge nails.